Avant-Garde Dials For The Collector

India’s appetite for fine watchmaking is at a point of inflection. Swiss watch exports to the country have grown the fastest for three consecutive years, driven by a discerning new class of buyers, rising awareness of independent brands, and a renewed appreciation for craftsmanship. With an expanding network of boutiques like Rolex, Omega, and Grand Seiko, Indian watch buyers are maturing fast to build their collections, often seeking their fifth or sixth timepieces that go beyond the traditional round dials and classic hand configurations. Many enthusiasts are increasingly drawn to timepieces that break from convention—watches that spark conversation, challenge norms, and reflect a bold sense of individuality. Whether it’s through floating discs, fluid-filled chambers, or cosmic complications, these timepieces with unusual dials redefine what a watch can be. From this year’s most exciting launches, here are five standout timepieces redefining what it means to tell time in 2025.

U-BOAT U-65

In a world often dominated by rigid, uninspired designs, the U-BOAT U-65 emerges as a beacon of creativity and nonconformity. Housed in a bold 44mm satin-finished 316L stainless steel case (also available with black PVD treatment), it features an ultra-domed sapphire crystal and movable lugs for exceptional comfort. The standout feature is its three-layer skeleton dial, rich in industrial character, with tones of grey or black depending on the variant. U-BOAT’s exclusive Oil Immersion System encases the Ronda 756 movement in a fluid that amplifies depth and curvature, creating an almost surreal 3D effect. A floating compensation bubble glides freely across the dial, interacting with Super-LumiNova-treated markers at 12, 8, and 4 o’clock in acid green, aquamarine, and white. Forgoing U-BOAT’s signature left-side crown, the U-65 uses a discreet button on the case back for hour-by-hour time setting. Next to it, an innovative Locking Ring System allows for easy fluid refills—ensuring long-term functionality and visual impact.

Cartier Tank à Guichets

Cartier revisits an icon with the reissue of the 1928 Tank à Guichets, a timepiece that exemplifies early digital-style horology. This new limited-edition version—just 200 pieces worldwide—features a platinum case (37.6 x 24.8 mm, 6 mm thick) and repositions the winding crown at 12 o’clock, as in the original. Powered by the manual-winding calibre 9755 MC, the watch displays time via jumping hour and trailing minute apertures. The hour window is rotated counterclockwise to 10 o’clock, while the wandering minutes appear at 4 o’clock, both giving a quirky twist to an otherwise minimalist dial. For connoisseurs of historic design and subtle complication, the Tank à Guichets is a rare blend of old-world charm and modern execution.

Grönefeld 1944 Tanfana

Dutch brothers Tim and Bart Grönefeld, known for their award-winning haute horlogerie, unveil their first ladies’ watch: the 1944 Tanfana. Named after a local pagan goddess honouring the birth year of their mother, this piece introduces a fresh, elegant dimension to the Grönefeld collection. The timepiece features a blue aventurine dial—a material never before used by the brand—framed in a red gold case set with diamonds. Its automatic three-hand movement maintains the brand’s commitment to exquisite finishing, now with a more feminine touch. The Tanfana is not just a timepiece; it’s a tribute—rich in meaning and crafted with care, perfectly balancing tradition and innovation.

Ressence Type 7

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Ressence continues to redefine modern watchmaking with the Type 7, a 41mm Grade 5 titanium-cased watch, featuring the brand’s iconic oil-filled dial. The effect? Time appears as if projected directly onto the glass, enhancing clarity and eliminating distortions. This latest model introduces a GMT function in Ressence’s 15-year history—an essential feature for frequent travelers. At its heart lies the ROCS 7 system, a patented magnetic transmission movement offering a fluid, intuitive reading of time. The XV Aquamarine edition celebrates the brand’s anniversary with a lightweight aluminium bezel and distinctive sea-toned dial. Meanwhile, the Night Blue version offers a ceramic bezel and a more classic, moody palette. Both editions come on an ergonomic titanium bracelet and are limited to 80 pieces.

Trilobe Une Folle Journée

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First introduced in 2022, Une Folle Journée by Trilobe evolved the unconventional display pioneered by Les Matinaux. It replaced the base dial entirely, revealing a dynamic architectural display beneath a dramatic domed sapphire crystal. In the latest 2025 edition, the baseplate is rhodium-plated, while the three floating rings—displaying hours, minutes, and seconds—are made of DLC-coated titanium in blue, green, or black. These pad-printed concentric indicators rotate independently to show the time, with no central hands. Housed in a 40.5mm Grade 5 titanium case with alternating polished and brushed finishes, this piece is both futuristic and poetic. It’s a visual dance of time, perfect for collectors, who appreciate mechanical complexity and abstract beauty.